Monthly Archives: September 2010

How often should you cleanse with a cleanser?

Basically it depends on your skin condition.

Someone who produces a lot of their own moisturizer (aka the ‘oil’ that comes from the sebaceous glands in the skin) would need to cleanse with a gentle cleanser 2 x per day. Acne sufferers who have oily skins must definitely cleanse 2 x per day in order to reduce bacterial buildup. Most combination skins and definitely all dryer skin types (people who produce very little of their own moisturizer) should cleanse 1 x per day – preferably in the evening. When you wake after sleeping, most people can simply splash the face with cool water in place of using a cleanser. If you do not produce a lot of ‘oil’ then don’t over cleanse – you can unbalance the skin by cleansing too much.

I say evening based on the fact that most people work day shifts – and their skin collects dirt/debris during the day – and the more stress we are under the worse it is. However, if one works the night shift, then the major cleanse should be done at the end of the work shift whether that be midnight or 6AM etc. I hope that makes sense.

If you only need to cleanse 1 x per day, make sure it is a good 1 and a half minute cleanse with a gentle cleanser. See the video ‘The Correct Way To Use A Gentle Cleanser’ on the SkinCareTV channel on YouTube.

There must be NO dry or squeaky-clean feeling after cleansing. To test whether your cleanser is right for your skin type, dry the skin after cleansing and wait 5 – 10 minutes before applying anything else on the skin. If the skin starts tightening and feeling dry, then the cleanser is too strong for your skin. The cleansers I recommend on the Blue Turtle Spa Online Shop are some of the most gentle I have ever found.

Is the skin around the eyes thin?

Question from a YouTube visitor to the SkinCareTV channel : Doesn’t the skin under the eye wrinkle´╗┐ easily because there are less layers of skin under the eye? This is what I was taught when I worked for Clinique.

Answer: The epidermal and dermal layers are the same and function the same way as other areas of the face. The subcutaneous layer (fat tissue that sits under the dermal layer) is less in the eye area. Under the fat tissue is the muscle tissue. The fat tissue provides a cushioning effect for the dermal layer (where the collagen and elastin fibers reside). Less fat tissue increases the wrinkling potential due to constant muscle movement around the eyes.

The other cause of wrinkling is sun damage – so using a high mineral content sunscreen around the eyes will help reduce the sun damage and therefore potential wrinkling. That is why I totally promote mineral sunscreens – they can be worn right around the eyes because there is no moisturizer included.

For more information on inorganic (mineral) sunscreens check out http://www.shop.blueturtlespa.com/Sunscreens_c7.htm

Milia, white heads, white bumps…..

Little white bumps (white heads) that appear on the skin are typically Milia.  They are cholesterol and sebum deposits. Cholesterol is used in building cell walls – it is a good thing. Milia are not related to your blood cholesterol levels. It is not an acne pustule. Acne pustules are usually associated with acne bacteria and they get red with varying degrees of inflammation.

Milia tend to be genetic and related to sun damage. Many people get them around the eyes and cheeks as they age. They can be zapped by a dermatologist (cosmetic procedure) or you can use a glycolic acid exfoliator combined with a colloidal sulfur topically – like Clear-it. Any reference to milia through an online search will always result in the common remedy – exfoliate!. However, trying to do this with a scrub is not the right solution…you will more likely just damage the skin. Using an Alpha Hydroxy Acid (Glycolic), if your skin is strong enough to manage it, is the only effective solution…combined with using Clear-it on the milia.

Reducing the milia size or eliminating them completely usually happens within weeks. It is great for blemishes and most sebaceous cysts (like milia). Check out the Clear-it at the online Blue Turtle Spa shop.

Mixing your sunscreen and moisturizer together? Bad idea!

It is never a good idea to mix your moisturizer and sunscreen together. The ingredients that make a sunscreen work have to be in a set combination. Throwing your moisturizer ingredients into the equation will totally reduce the effectiveness of the sunscreen.

It is like mixing chamomile tea with beer, or mixing 2 food recipes and get a sloppy/messy tasteless result. So NO Mixing… Use moisturizer where your need it, and sunscreen everywhere.

However if you have 2 mineral sunscreens of at least 10% Zinc + Titanium, and 1 is very white and ghostly, then mixing it with the TiZO SPF 40 will give you a lighter tint without reducing the effectiveness too much. Do not try this with non 10% mineral sunscreens.

More sunscreen info at SkinCareTV channel on YouTube.

Is your cleanser too strong or just right for your skin?

To check, cleanse your face, do not put your moisturizer on immediately, wait at least 5 minutes, and see if your skin starts feeling tight. If you just have to put moisturizer on to relieve the tight feeling, then the cleanser is too strong for your skin. Tightness and squeaky-clean is sooo unatural for the skin.

Most cleansers on the market are detergent based….ingredients will include some of these:
Soldium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, ……sulfonate, …..sarconate, …..sulfosuccinate, …..betaine, ….amphodiacetate, and there are many variations that the marketing companies use to try and disguise the fact that the cleanser is detergent based. These detergents are what they incorporate into florr cleaners, counter top cleaners, bath and shower cleaners etc.

The best cleanser is a hydrophilic oil based cleanser. After cleansing the skin should feel moist, soft, and clean. Squeaky-clean is a marketing term used by companies who know nothing about the skin.

Check out the video on cleansers on the SkinCareTV channel on YouTube