Monthly Archives: June 2014

Lab grown skin – will save millions of lab animals from torture, pain and death

Some advances in skin care are humane – most are not! Check out this article for a positive humane aspect to skin care products.

All dermatology drugs and creams made by pharmaceutical companies and sold by doctors/pharmacies, are tested on animals. ‘FDA approved’ means ‘animal tested’. These test are painful and traumatic to each animal – but you never see nor hear about how they suffer…just the media coverage that makes it sound blissfully wonderful that these pharmaceutical companies/universities/government agencies are discovering new ways to change the way our skin looks. In this day and age, the global inhumanity to animals is epic…all because we want to live longer and look younger….and make pharmaceutical companies richer.

All Sensitive Skin Clinic products are cruelty free, and are never tested on animals. All services at Blue Turtle Spa utilise cruelty free skin care products. I will NEVER agree with anyone who feels that animals are disposable entities in the search for the mythical fountain of youth!

To know more about animal testing please watch this SkinCareTV video.

Stop ‘Clarisonic-brushing’ and scrubbing your skin – unless you are serious about wanting to damage it!

It’s not just me who hates those damned marketing hyped sonic brushes… Dermatologist Dr Glogau agrees with me…

Check out the San Francisco Chronicle article about self-inflicted-pink-faced-sensitive-skin-people with a cascade of tiny whiteheads and a checkerboard of light and dark patches…. Does this sound familiar to you?????

As the article states Self-inflicted sensitive skin is on the rise, so much so that beauty counters and drug stores are awash in products that either specifically target sensitive skin or promise to be gentle and non-irritating…In the (Hi-Tech San Francisco) Bay Area, doctors and skin care professionals trace the correlative link between complaints of sensitive skin and the hyper-exfoliation fad back to 2004, when sonic face brushes hit the market. Since then, sales of soothing face products like masks, oils and gels have proliferated.’ Check out the Soothe + Hydrate Mask – it is sensationally soothing for all sensitive skin types.

I constantly see clients who have damaged their skin with harsh detergent cleansers, anti-acne products, Retin-A/Differin (etc) strong anti-aging products, chemical peels, Alpha Hydroxy Acid exfoliators that are too strong for their skin, those ‘barbaric and neanderthal’ scrubbing cleansers, and all the latest and non-scientific marketing-hyped fads. SEEING AS THIS IS THE ONLY SKIN YOU WILL EVER HAVE, WHY DO YOU WANT TO TREAT IT SO BADLY AND DAMAGE IT FOR THE REST OF YOUR LIFE?

So many of my clients suffer with sensitive skin, and this is one of the reasons I created the Sensitive Skin Clinic line of products, but overall, I have always contended that ALL skin should be treated sensitively. I created a list of the best and worst things to do for your skin. I helped people determine which of the 3 levels of sensitivity they are part of. More importantly, I have helped them strengthen their skin, getting it more balanced and a lot less sensitive.

Simply put, one of the best methods to rebuild the strength of your sensitive skin is to only use a truly sensitive cleanser (with cool water), keep the skin hydrated and then apply a lipid rich moisturizer.
The information provided here is not meant to diagnose or cure any medical conditions. Please see your doctor or a trained medical professional should you have any concerns.

Will acne skin care products help prevent acne – even if you don’t have any acne right now?

Question from a client:

Will acne skin care products help prevent acne – even if you don’t have any acne right now?

It’s like take lipitor 20mg cholesterol medication incase you get high cholesterol….or taking pain killers incase you get a headache….or putting your leg in a cast incase you break it….or taking antibiotics incase you have a breakout….

No drugs nor skin care products can be classified as an insurance policy….and it is not a precautionary measure because there is no way to prevent something from happening….well not on this planet anyway….

I dislike most acne products on the market because they are aggressive and usually bad for the skin. Using them as a precautionary measure will just unbalance the skin and create other problems like redness, dryness, flakiness, sensitivity…. For example, use Clear-it ONLY on the pimple and rub it in. Never smear Clear-it all over the face hoping the antibacterial nature of the sulfur will prevent future potential pimples.

I believe that most acne should be treated gently – not aggressively (there are a few exceptions to my general rule)…. Following the following rules will work for most acne conditions….

Always just use a truly gentle cleanser, utilising cool water, and only once per day (unless you are a type 4 teenage acne sufferer).  Cleanse at night, not in the morning. Never cleanse in the shower. Cleanse with cool water before of after showering. Keep your face out of the hot shower water. Hot water is bad for your skin all over your body – and your hair….sorry…but this is true!

Use the appropriate exfoliator for your skin type – at least 3 nights per week, but maybe 5 or 7 x per week if your skin needs it or can accommodate it.

Help your skin repair by retaining hydration levels with Hydrate + Serum or aloCell Gel.

Apply moisturizer only where needed, not where you naturally produce your own moisturizer (aka ‘oil’).

Always use a mineral sunscreen every day (rain or shine) to reduce the potential of dark spots after the acne pimple has gone away…

Eat a HEALTHY diet of 5 fruit and 5 vegetable servings every day. Eliminate Dairy and processed Foof from your diet. NEVER EAT JUNK/FAST FOOD!

The information provided here is not meant to diagnose or cure any medical conditions. Please see your doctor or a trained medical professional should you have any concerns.

Which exfoliator to use for flaky dry skin, age spots, hyperpigmentation

Here are my ‘general’ recommendations, going from the mildest form of exfoliator to the strongest form. 

Everyone is unique and the skin may react differently from person to person using these different exfoliator solutions. See NOTES at end of the article.


For dry/flaky skin use an enzyme exfoliator like No Dry Skin + Enzyme Gel at a 4.0pH. Enzymes catalyse the break down the dry dead cells on the surface of the skin. Use it a minimum of 3 nights per week after cleansing – and you can go up to 7 nights per week as long as you don’t have sensitive skin. The result will be smoother, softer, non-flaky skin.

For skin that has a little dryness, a little oiliness, a little pigmentation, a little rough texture, use Gentle + Exfoliate Gel. It is a very light alpha and beta hydroxy acid formula at a 4.0pH. It will not irritate the vast majority of skin types. It may tingle/sting slightly. Apply it on dry (non moist) skin. Use it 3 nights per week after cleansing. Non sensitive skin can use it 7 nights per week. Most mild adult acne problems can be controlled by using this exfoliator.

For skin that is combination or oily, experiences regular adult acne outbreaks, has more pronounced hyperpigmentation caused by the acne pimples, and has stronger keratin growth (like little skin bumps that form over old pimples and take a while to go away), use either the 3.9pH Clear Skin Ultra Gel, or the stronger 3.5pH Age Limit. By increasing cell turnover rates you will see less congestion of pores, hyperpigmentation and rough texture. Apply it on dry (non moist) skin. Use it 3 nights per week after cleansing. Non sensitive skin can use it 7 nights per week. These are not ideal products for very sensitive skin.

For oily or combination skin that experiences strong keratin growth (often represented by many sebaceous cysts along the jaw and chin, but can also be seen on cheeks and forehead) and other ‘annoying’ bumpiness on the skin use Power Peel (it is not a peel – just an exfoliator). This aggressive 3.2pH alpha hydroxy acid will definitely tingle and sting on most skin types. Some people feel it makes their skin ‘itch’. These are natural reactions to an AHA of this intensity. Use it 3 nights per week, and you can build up to 5 nights then 7 nights a week (over a 1 month period) if your skin can accommodate it (i.e. your skin should not get and stay red, irritated or flaky). Severe adult acne sufferers usually benefit from this exfoliator. Use at night on dry (non moist) skin, after cleansing. This exfoliator usually works well at lifting and lightening most forms of pigmentation caused by acne and sun damage. Often this is the best exfoliator for ‘oily’ teenage skin.

Sometimes I recommend a stronger exfoliator like the 32% GlySalLac at 3.0pH – but only after consulting with the client, or, preferably performing a facial on them, and in so doing I get to know more about the strength and condition of their skin. I never believe in being aggressive on the skin just for the sake of it….

A peel, performed by an experienced esthetician, will deliver great results in terms of reducing hyperpigmentation, acne scarring, and rough texture. It is not for everyone. I will never do a peel on anyone unless I have worked on their skin before, and thus know whether they can accommodate an intense exfoliation peel. I only do peels from late Fall through to early Spring. I never do peels in Summer. Read this article for information on home care and peel expectations. It’s the only skin you will ever have, so if you screw it up by being too aggressive, you have to live with it….

NOTE: Stronger and more aggressive does NOT mean better results. Use the correct exfoliator suited to the level of sensitivity of your skin. Have patience…use a milder exfoliator and get better results of a longer period of time…expect improvements within weeks rather than within days.

NOTE: Once you have achieved your primary exfoliating skin care goals, you should try using a milder form of exfoliator as your ongoing home care maintenance product.


For more information on exfoliation, see the SkinCareTV video.

NOTE: The general rule of thumb with skin care exfoliators….expect some kind of sensation on the skin….expect a little redness – but it goes away within 5 minutes after removing the exfoliator. STOP using a product that results in prolonged or intense redness or any ongoing irritation or increase in skin sensitivity where the exfoliator was applied. Never use a strong exfoliator on inflamed or irritated or abraided skin or wounds. Never get an exfoliator in the eyes. ALWAYS use cool water to remove exfoliators – NEVER warm or hot water. Use cool water to calm any skin irritation.


The information provided here is not meant to diagnose or cure any medical conditions. Please see your doctor or a trained medical professional should you have any concerns.