Category Archives: Cleansers

How to fall in love with your sensitive skin, and make it your Valentine

As in any relationship, love is a 2 way street. If you give more love and understanding, you’ll get more in return. So too with your sensitive skin.

What you need to DO in order to make your sensitive skin love you:

1.  Use cool water. Sensitive and red skin = irritated and unbalanced skin. Red skin = heat. So go ‘blue’ – that means cooling and soothing.
2.  Cleanse once per day preferably at night, using cool water. Not in your hot steamy shower. Just splash the face with cool water in the morning. Do not cleanse twice per day unless you are a teenage type 4 acne sufferer.
3.  Use non detergent cleansers with ingredients like plant based yucca, glycerin, or hydrophilic oil based cleansers (high quality emulsified olive and coconut oil for example).
4.  Use soothing, anti-redness, anti-irritant ingredients like sea whip, lichocalcone from the licorice plant, green tea, aloe vera.
5.  Utilize skin barrier rebuilding lipids like squalane from olives, coconut and soy based lipids, phospholipids, ceramides, shea butter (a West African tree nut extract)
6.  Mineral sunscreens that only utilize the inorganic (non carbon based) active ingredients of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. They are not likely to break down and irritate the skin like the organic (carbon based) active sunscreen ingredients of avobenzone (parsol 1789), octinoxate, octicrylene, PABA. etc. The latest technology of micronized zinc that is coated goes clear on skin. Alternatively titanium dioxide + iron oxides that include a slight tint results in no white sheen.
7.  Rinse off your shampoo and conditioner well. Shampoo + conditioner residue is usually bad for the skin. Try a baby shampoo with shea butter in it. Not the commercial baby shampoos – they’re just detergents in a baby formula. I like the Shea Touch baby shampoo.
8.  Eat a healthy diet – lots of organic fruit and vegetables. Mother natures provides masses of soothing/anti inflammatory antioxidants in all her fruit + vegetables. They’re not there just to make the planet look and smell pretty! Aloe vera juice is very soothing for the digestive system. Junk food/fast food should be zero – it is not healthy and not part of a balanced diet and NOT good for the skin – especially not sensitive skin.

The NO=NO’s are critically important for your relationship with your sensitive skin…no hot water, no steam, no saunas, no squeaky-clean detergent cleansers – you may love them but your skin hates them.

Your skin stays with you for the rest of your life, you cannot buy a new one, so treat it properly. Treat it sensitively.

Sensitive Skin Clinic is intelligent skin care that you and your skin deserve. Sensitive Skin Clinic products that will suit sensitive skin are:
Extreme + Sensitive Cleanser 4oz $21.
Relief + Serum 1.7oz to relieve red skin $58 or Hydrate + Serum 1.7oz $49.
Light + Calm Lotion 1.7oz $49 or Rich + Calm Cream 1.7oz $50
Mineral Sunscreen SPF 40 with 20% clear zinc (by TiZO) 3.5oz $41

The information provided here is not meant to diagnose or cure any medical conditions. Please see your doctor or a trained medical professional should you have any concerns.

Oil Cleansing Method…How to use Deep + Gentle Cleanser

Using a high quality oil based cleanser is the best thing for all skin types, and is the only type of cleanser that really does help to lift blackheads and yet does not strip your skin of it’s natural and vital lipid barrier….remember that ‘squeaky-clean’ is so totally bad, unnatural and unhealthy for all skin….

NOTE: Cleanse at night. Do NOT cleanse in the shower. You need to use cool water to cleanse.

OCM in 6 easy steps.

1. Do not wet face. Do not wet hands.

2. Apply about the size of US 25c coin to dry skin each P.M.

3. Move over skin in gentle circular motions for 1 to 2 minutes.

Concentrate on areas where you have blackheads and more ‘oil’ production.

It does not foam or have any of the tricks associated with all commercial detergent cleansers out there.

4. After 1 – 2 minutes add a little cool water to fingers and add it to the oil cleanser on your skin. Repeat 4x. The cleanser turns ‘milky’ with the addition of water.

At this point you will have the distinct tactile feeling of the skin of your fingers on the skin of your face – meaning there is no cleanser product separating them.

5. Remove all residue of the cleanser by splashing the face with cool water.

Your skin will feel soft, moist, and clean. There will be no unnatural ‘squeaky-clean’ feeling nor a sense of dryness on the vast majority of skin types.

6. Pat the skin dry with a clean soft towel and marvel at the great feeling.

It is important not to over cleanse the skin – only once a day (in the PM) is all your skin needs – unless you are a teenage type 4 acne sufferer who needs to cleanse twice per day – but the vast majority of people will just unbalance their skin by cleansing more than once per day.

To remove makeup like foundation, use more cleanser – you will have to try different amounts based on the type and quantity of makeup you apply to your face.

To remove eye makeup, apply cleanser to some cotton and wipe over eye area. Repeat if needed depending on the type and quantity of eye make up you applied. Do not rub harshly – just use a bit more cleanser. Be gentle with your skin – it does not deserve harsh treatment – after all you put the makeup on the skin – it’s not your skin’s fault – so be gentle with it!

Watch the OCM video at SkinCareTV.

Read the related blog entries on the easiest way to stop oily skin, and how to deal with oily skin in the morning.

There’s coconut oil in many moisturizers, so what’s the hype about?

Coconut oil is magical, miraculous, natural, and over hyped….

It has been used in many household and personal care products for decades. Lauric acid is a long chain fatty acid from coconuts and is used to create detergents…like sodium lauryl sulfate and all the other detergent molecules that contain the word lauryl (and derivatives thereof). These molecules are used in laundry detergents, dish washing liquids, shampoos, skin cleansers, bath cleaners, car engine cleaners etc etc… The easy way to recognise a detergent is how it leaves the surface to which it was applied….that is, it leaves the surface ‘squeaky clean’. By the by, squeaky clean is totally unnatural and unhealthy for the skin and hair – so stop using these detergent products already!!!! Other coconut derived detergents are coco glucosides….but used in small quantities they are used as emulsifiers in other leave on products. Emulsifiers help bind water and oil based ingredients together to form the ‘cream’ format you know and love…

And the medium chain fatty acids of coconut oil are used in moisturizers…. just look for the ingredient ‘caprylic/capric triglycerides‘…that is what that fractionated part of coconut oil is called… The higher up on the list of ingredients means the larger the quantity of this fraction of coconut oil is in your moisturizer. They are called fatty acids. The term oil does not accurately describe this ingredient. These fatty molecules are highly suitable as skin moisturizers.

These wonderful medium chain fatty acids of coconut oil can also be used in oil based cleansers – like the fabulous Deep + Gentle Cleanser (oil) from Sensitive Skin Clinic.

Yes, you can use coconut oil as a moisturizer and hair conditioner…no problem! Most coconut oil products you can purchase have been processed to eliminate the unsaturated fats (unsaturated fats increase the potential for coconut oil to become rancid). The processed coconut oil is usually aroma ‘neutral’ meaning it does not smell like coconut, because it is RBD oil (refined, bleached and deodorized). Virgin coconut oil will smell like coconuts. Virgin coconut oil often contains contaminants and thus is seldom used for cooking or any skin and hair application…..and these contaminants in virgin coconut oil can cause skin irritation and worsen the clogging of pores. Virgin coconut oil is definitely not recommended for sensitive skin!

So look for the high quality, non pore clogging, non waxy, non greasy, non irritating ingredient caprylic/capric triglycerides in your search to follow the crowds into the world of coconut oil hype….. As I’ve said before, I definitely don’t have a problem with anyone using high quality coconut oil on their skin or hair.

As for the health benefits of eating it….well I’m not knowledgeable enough in matters of nutrition to say very much, other than some people will need to check with their doctors if high quantities of saturated fats in their diet is bad for any heart/blood condition they may have. Coconut oil is very high in saturated fats.

Here are seven uses for coconut oil (with no scientific facts to support them)and the list was compiled by someone who just wants to be part of the hype machine…..and they leave it up to you to research whether there is any truth in what they say….in other words the typical ‘beauty editor’ approach in all ‘glamour’ magazines 🙂

The information provided here is not meant to diagnose or cure any medical conditions. Please see your doctor or a trained medical professional should you have any concerns.

Will acne skin care products help prevent acne – even if you don’t have any acne right now?

Question from a client:

Will acne skin care products help prevent acne – even if you don’t have any acne right now?

It’s like take lipitor 20mg cholesterol medication incase you get high cholesterol….or taking pain killers incase you get a headache….or putting your leg in a cast incase you break it….or taking antibiotics incase you have a breakout….

No drugs nor skin care products can be classified as an insurance policy….and it is not a precautionary measure because there is no way to prevent something from happening….well not on this planet anyway….

I dislike most acne products on the market because they are aggressive and usually bad for the skin. Using them as a precautionary measure will just unbalance the skin and create other problems like redness, dryness, flakiness, sensitivity…. For example, use Clear-it ONLY on the pimple and rub it in. Never smear Clear-it all over the face hoping the antibacterial nature of the sulfur will prevent future potential pimples.

I believe that most acne should be treated gently – not aggressively (there are a few exceptions to my general rule)…. Following the following rules will work for most acne conditions….

Always just use a truly gentle cleanser, utilising cool water, and only once per day (unless you are a type 4 teenage acne sufferer).  Cleanse at night, not in the morning. Never cleanse in the shower. Cleanse with cool water before of after showering. Keep your face out of the hot shower water. Hot water is bad for your skin all over your body – and your hair….sorry…but this is true!

Use the appropriate exfoliator for your skin type – at least 3 nights per week, but maybe 5 or 7 x per week if your skin needs it or can accommodate it.

Help your skin repair by retaining hydration levels with Hydrate + Serum or aloCell Gel.

Apply moisturizer only where needed, not where you naturally produce your own moisturizer (aka ‘oil’).

Always use a mineral sunscreen every day (rain or shine) to reduce the potential of dark spots after the acne pimple has gone away…

Eat a HEALTHY diet of 5 fruit and 5 vegetable servings every day. Eliminate Dairy and processed Foof from your diet. NEVER EAT JUNK/FAST FOOD!

The information provided here is not meant to diagnose or cure any medical conditions. Please see your doctor or a trained medical professional should you have any concerns.

How to stop oily skin…the easiest way

Here’s the easy step by step approach to stop oily skin from making you unhappy:

1. Wash your face only 1x per day – AT NIGHT!
2. Use ONLY cool water with a gentle cleanser – DO NOT WASH FACE IN SHOWER!
3. Use a TRULY gentle cleanser – NO DETERGENT CLEANSER! That means no cleanser for oily or acne skin, no Cetaphil or other drug store brands that claim to be gentle…that’s just marketing lies…because the ingredients tell the truth – looks for …lauroyl sarcosinate, laureth sulfate, lauryl sulfate and other kinds of sulfate, betaines…. yes they are all in these so-called gentle cleansers….
4. Moisturize only where needed…that means do not apply moisturizer all over the face – just where you need it….so if you are oily on the nose or chin etc – do not apply moisturizer there….SIMPLE!
5. DO NOT use alcohol wipes or alcohol toners. Actually do not use anything that claims it will eliminate your oil…they will just make things worse…within 2 hours!

Want to know why this simple approach works? Check out the video on How the skin works, as well as the one that shows that only certain cleansers matter.

Here are a few comments from my clients who have stopped their oily and problematic skin from making them unhappy:
Logan R Yelp review ‘He completely blew my mind when he explained that I was washing my face too much.’
Becky T Yelp review ‘Ive had oily skin my whole life and its always been a losing battle –
until I had a facial with Andrew.  We discussed and changed my cleansing
routine and now Im oil free!! Thank you so much!’
Olga V Yelp review ‘the main ingredient in my facial care now is cold water. Apparently all these years my face wanted cold water! Go figure.’
Michelle E by email ‘It was weird not washing my face with cleanser this morning but I have actually noticed that my skin does not appear to be as oily and shiny throughout the day as it used to be.  Amazing!’

So, go ahead and try it! Yes all the stuff you’ve been told to do for oily skin is BS!