Category Archives: Cleansers

Oily skin in the morning? What to do

You wake up and your skin is oily – you hate it – what to do?

1) Do not use hot water and detergent cleanser (and definitely NOT that oily-skin-cleanser or acne-skin-cleanser). If you do, the initial feeling of squeaky-clean, non-oily skin will be replaced with very oily skin again within 2 hours….because that’s just the way the skin works… So, just splash the face with cool water and for most people that is enough. Do not stick your face into the steaming hot shower water (which is of course bad for the skin on the rest of your body ) Use your gentle cleanser only at night. Type 4 teenage acne sufferers may cleanse in the morning and evening with a truly gentle cleanser (no detergents, no hot water)… If you have sensitive AND oily skin – you DEFINITELY CANNOT use hot water and detergent cleansers… See the Extreme + Sensitive cleanser as well as Skin Tips for Sensitive Skin.

2. Do not apply moisturizer all over – just where you need it, and apply less in the morning than you apply at night. See the video moisturize: yes or no.

3. Use a mineral sunscreen – not a moisturizer/sunscreen combination. Saving time by using a 2-in-1 product will just make you oily again.

You will be less oily during the day – but if you are a big-time-oil-producer…so get used to the idea of some oil, but not lots of oil. Blotting excess oil with tissues is fine.

By the by, it’s commonly called ‘oil’ but it’s not oil – the sebaceous secretions are actually a fat. See the video how the skin works.

Why does the skin feel extra oily on a hot day?
Because fat will change its viscosity in heat. Think of butter – it is a solid fat, but will melt in heat and appear runny – like ‘oil’ – but it is just melted/runny fat! You are not producing more oil on a hot day. It just feels that way. Blot excess oil with tissues.

Oily skin is not gross, it is part of the wonderfully intricate engineering of the human body. Like it or not, that is the way your skin works. If you resist the temptation to try and stop it from functioning naturally (as per the marketing hype and lies of the skin care product industry), it will settle down and just be ‘normal’. Normal refers to what is normal for you – not what is normal for someone else. So there is no general definition of normal skin….it is a stupid marketing term that you should delete from your memory!

Pre-teen acne increasing…solutions need to be gentle

In this great article, a dermatology professor in Australia is very clear in his opinion that adult solutions like antibiotics, acutane and other drugs and harsh products should not be used on pre-teens. Their skin and body can be adversely affected by severe medical treatments. As he says, using a gentle cleanser and no scrubs is just as critical….and yet so many cosmetic companies (medical and non-medical) will tell parents to buy a detergent/Salicylic acid cleanser with a scrub as an exfoliator…. BAD, BAD, BAD….

The best approach is to teach the child to use a truly gentle cleanser using COOL water, NOT HOT, a very mild exfoliator like Clear Skin Ultra Gel or Gentle + Exfoliate Gel, and spot treat with a colloidal sulfur solution (sulfur is anti-bacterial as well as having repairing qualities for the skin)… To find out more about acne, watch this video.

The information provided here is not meant to diagnose or cure any medical conditions. Please see your doctor or a trained medical professional should you have any concerns.

Home Care routine for Severe Rosacea and Sensitive Skin (UPDATED)

PM Home Care Routine:

1.  Cleanse with Dr Schwab Sensitive Cleanser or Extreme + Sensitive Cleanser. Use about the size of a US quarter/25cent coin (use more than that if you wear makeup – play with different quantities to find the optimal amount that removes the quantity of makeup that you use on your skin). Follow the process as per the video of how to use this cleanser. I am VERY serious about the process and the fact that you add small amounts of water each time – do not try and take a short cut and use large amounts of water – it will not produce the same result! Do NOT follow the instructions on the cleanser bottle. ONLY use cool water.

2. Hydrate + Serum. It hydrates the skin which then helps it start repairing itself. Apply 1 to 2 pumps all over, leave on.

3. Tu’el Super Soothe Mask or SSC Soothe + Hydrate Mask Apply on red/irritated/painful skin. It will calm just about any skin type, and also nourish it with antioxidants. Use a substantial layer of the mask – do not let it disappear from view – it must be visible on the skin at all times. Leave on 10 minutes. Splash off with cool water.

4. Apply medicated solutions if necessary – metrogel/antibiotics if prescribed by your doctor. This is a personal decision on your part…I cannot tell you that you should or should not follow your doctors prescription….

5. Skin Renu Rosacea Defense or SSC Light + Calm Lotion (if you have very dry skin you may prefer the SSC Rich + Calm Cream) – moisturize all over. This is a great light moisturizer to help add valuable lipids back into rosacea or damaged/sensitive skin – a critical element for the skin to regain strength and so reduce the visible aspects of rosacea or skin sensitivity.

AM Home Care Routine

1. Splash the face with cool water – do not cleanse. Over-cleansing is bad for all skin types but especially bad for rosacea and sensitive skin.

2. SSC Hydrate + Serum. It hydrates the skin which then helps it start repairing itself. Apply 1 to 2 pumps all over, leave on.

3. Tu’el Super Soothe Mask or SSC Soothe + Hydrate Mask. Apply on red/irritated/painful skin. It will calm just about any skin type, and also nourish it with antioxidants. It must be a substantial layer of the mask – do not let it disappear from view – it must be visible on the skin at all times. Leave on 10 minutes. Splash off with cool water.

4. Apply medicated solutions if necessary – metrogel/antibiotics if prescribed by your doctor. This is a personal decision on your part…I cannot tell you that you should or should not follow your doctors prescription….

5. Skin Renu Rosacea Defense – moisturize only where needed during the daytime – not all over if there are areas where you are naturally ‘oily’ – i.e. where you produce a lot of your own natural moisturizer…see the video on whether to moisturize or not. You don’t want to have too much moisturizer on during the day as your skin will often produce more of it’s own due to stress hormones and other hormonal activity.

6. Apply a mineral sunscreen like ‘Mineral Sunscreen SPF 40‘ (with a tint), or ‘Mineral Sunscreen SPF 35‘ (without tint). Only mineral sunscreens should be used on extremely sensitive skin. Apply a sunscreen EVERY DAY!

NOTE: Do not try and exfoliate severe rosacea and sensitive skin. Your skin will have to strengthen to a more moderate level of rosacea and sensitivity before you do that. See the blog entry for a home care routine for moderate rosacea and sensitivity.

YOU MAY PURCHASE A 15 MINUTE SKYPE VIDEO CONSULTATION WITH ANDREW IF YOU NEED HELP.

NOTE: The information provided here is not meant to diagnose or cure any medical conditions. Please see your doctor or a trained medical professional should you have any concerns.…

Is your skin REALLY oily?

Everyone thinks they have an oily T zone – well aren’t we all supposed to have an oily T zone? Based on all that you read about from beauty ‘experts’ in beauty magazines, plus all the marketing hype from skin care company marketing machines, plus the medical profession, yes we all have oily T zones….BUT DO WE REALLY?

Here’s the thing…the more unbalanced your skin, the more problems you have, and the more likely you are to see and feel an oily T zone. This means you will be constantly buying products that promise to control your oily T zone. ‘They’ all want you to cleanse your face 2 x per day with detergent cleansers, with hot or warm water, and use astringent toners to further strip your skin of all it’s natural lipid barrier…and all of this just unbalances the skin and creates oily T zones…

Voila! an oily T Zone is a money making  zone for most skin care manufacturers…

The ‘oil’ from your sebaceous glands in your pores is the natural lipid barrier of your skin. It is critical to the way the skin functions. The net of it all is that the more you strip your natural lipid barrier (oil) off your skin, the more oil it will make….and it will do this despite the lame aspirations of the skin care companies and the marketing hype machines, the advertising revenue focused beauty editors, and all the medical professionals with their own branded (but pretty generic) skin care lines. Find out more about how the skin really works by watching this video.

For most people, the equation is pretty simple:
Using hot water will create more oil.
Using detergent cleansers will create more oil.
Using astringent toners will create more oil.

Change this equation and most people will discover how non-oily their skin is….

As one of my clients recently discovered:
“I’m shocked at how dry my skin is now that I’ve stopped using all my beloved detergents and whatnot. Had no idea what was going on under all that oil!”

The solution is simple:
Cool water only.
Truly gentle cleansers.
No toners.
Moisturize only where you skin needs it – not all over the face

Most people find it really hard to break away from the vicious cycle the skin care marketers set up for them..for fear of breakouts and dripping with oil. Skin care marketers work the way that politicians do…they promise you the world, deliver very little, but blind you with fear to prevent you from noticing that they never delivered on their promises.

Break free from your dependence on an oily T zone. You will be amazed at just how non oily you really are….

Best treatment and products for oily, sensitive skin

To deal with sensitive skin (which includes rosacea), follow the guidelines of the ‘worst things to do for sensitive skin‘, and these guidelines are also essential for oily skin that is sensitive….

1. No hot water – not even warm water – only cool water
2. No detergent cleanser – and definitely do not use cleansers for oily skin because they are also detergent cleansers
3. No alcohol or astringents that try and reduce the oiliness of the skin – because they actually will increase the level of oiliness – within 2 hours your skin will produce a whole lot more oil after you strip off the oil with detergent cleansers and alcohol astringents.

Your skin will reach homeostasis whether you like it or not…so why fight it? Why not work with it and I promise you will have a better, less oily skin…

So the solutions are:
1. Use a truly gentle cleanser like Extreme + Sensitive Cleanser, using cool water and following the ‘how to use’ instructions at the Sensitive Skin Clinic website.
2. Cleanse just once per day – over cleansing will continue to unbalance your skin, and produce more oiliness.
3. Moisturize only where needed – see the video Moisturize: Yes? or No? at the SkinCareTV channel on YouTube. Maybe the Hydrate + Serum is all you need if your skin is very oily – hydration is different from moisturizing, but if you have oily skin, that is your own natural moisturizer, so you don’t need man-made moisturizer as well….just a light hydration gel.

Try this, be gentle with sensitive skin, and don’t use harsh products and treatments that are common practice for oily skin….

The information provided here is not meant to diagnose or cure any medical conditions. Please see your doctor or a trained medical professional should you have any concerns.