Category Archives: Facial Exfoliators

You’re exfoliating but still your skin seems dry. Why?

Question from a consumer:
I just went and had a facial and the beautician said my skin was good but not exfoliated enough as there was a layer of dull dry skin.  She did an hydroxy??? Peel.  I was wondering why this would be the case when I have been using the Age Limit every night after cleansing and the 32% glycolic every 3rd night.
Do you have any suggestions as what I might be doing wrong?

Answer:
No, you are doing nothing wrong – but it is interesting that she felt your skin was not exfoliated enough….this could mean 1 of 2 things:
1.    You have strong epidermal growth and hyper keratin activity
2.    You have experienced excessive trans epidermal water loss (dehydration)

With #1 – you may need to use the stronger exfoliator more often. Did your skin feel dry/scaly before you had your facial? Did it feel less dry/scaly after the facial and subsequent days since the facial? If the skin improved after the peel treatment, you will probably need to increase the use of the stronger (32%) glycolic and salicylic exfoliator – maybe do 4 nights per week (MonTue/ThuFri)…
 
With #2 – have you been dehydrated recently? Maybe been ill with flu/taking medication like anti histamines for the flu or allergies? Such medications will dehydrate the skin, and in hot climates it exacerbates the dehydrated condition through water loss into the air around you (basic and excessive sweating).
 
Another outside chance with #2 – you are exfoliating too much and thus enabling way more water to be lost from the skin into the air around you. Reducing the use of the strong exfoliator will help reduce this, and using a water-binding hydration gel like aloCell Gel or the Hydrate + Serum before applying moisturizer will help keep the skin hydrated.
 
Without seeing your skin it is difficult for me to determine which of these scenarios it might be. If the skin was better after her exfoliation, then maybe it is the case of #1 above. If her exfoliation made no real difference to the skin, then it would be a case of either the #2 scenarios.

See also the entry on whether to use a stronger exfoliator or not, and all other articles related to exfoliation.

By the by, exfoliation NEVER refers to scrubs. Scrubbing is only suitable for pots and pans and other non organic surfaces….NOT the skin…

The information provided here is not meant to diagnose or cure any medical conditions. Please see your doctor or a trained medical professional should you have any concerns.

Face slapping, pinching, rough treatment, is it good for the face as we age?

Well, it is a known fact that the more active your circulatory system is, the more nutrition and oxygen is transported to every cell in your body. In young, healthy bodies, this just happens naturally, but as we age we need to ensure that we are being active and not couch potatoes with less than optimal energy levels…. Obviously, if you have a severe heart condition, only your doctor’s advice matters….

So can face slapping help you maintain a youthful looking skin? Yes and No is the correct answer. Face slapping, or any rough treatment of the skin for that matter (like Eastern European facial massage treatments) will increase blood circulation and bring nutrition to skin cells so they operate at optimal and more youthful levels. Reducing wrinkles is easy…just slap any skin enough times and you create a low level of inflammation that naturally ‘swells’ the skin and ‘miraculously’ reduces the depth or appearance of wrinkles. The only catch is that you have to keep up with slapping your face because once the inflammation goes down the wrinkles will reappear.

The challenge for aging skin is a natural body process where collagen and elastin fibres in the skin become more fragile. Rough treatment can help damage them and thus cause the body to destroy those cells. Now, as we age, we tend to produce fewer new cells than the number that get killed off, so creating a deficit that is evident in sagging and wrinkled skin.  So why exacerbate the natural aging process of the skin? Topically you can stimulate more youthfully acting skin with Age Limit or similar type exfoliation appropriate for your skin, as well as collagen and elastin stimulating aloCell Gel, or with stem cell activating and DNA repairing Cell Youth Actif (though not recommended for very sensitive skin).

Treat your skin gently as you age. Do not use hot water on the skin. Do not be rough or aggressive with your skin. Eat a healthy organic diet (note processed food using lots of GMO ingredients, and Junk food that also use lots of GMO ingredients, are both not the least bit healthy). Exercise appropriately for you level of health and age. Be happy and try not to believe marketing hyped BS.

The information provided here is not meant to diagnose or cure any medical conditions. Please see your doctor or a trained medical professional should you have any concerns.

Dry skin has 2 meanings

Classifying skin as ‘dry’ can be confusing because there are 2 levels of ‘dryness’ that you can experience with your skin.

Firstly, dryness relates to the amount of ‘oil’ your skin produces. The sebaceous gland produces this ‘oil’ and it is supposed to come out of the pores and cover the skin as your natural moisturizer. This stuff is good – and absolutely critical to the way your skin functions as a protective barrier for the rest of the body. If you skin produces little ‘oil’ you can be classified as having a ‘dry’ skin and you may experience more ‘tightness’ and also see a level of ‘crepey’ fine lines appear on the skin. You definitely will need to add moisturizer in order to make the skin appear more supple, hydrated and youthful. An ‘oily’ skin produces a lot of it’s own natural moisturizer and usually looks more supple and hydrated and thus does not require much in the way of man-made moisturizer to be slathered over it.

Secondly, the upper layer of the skin is naturally dry – made up of dead (keratinized) cells. It is also a way the skin is designed to protect the body. Too much keratin growth leaves your skin looking scaley and rough, and is also classified as dry. Using an effective Alpha Hydroxy Acid at a % and pH suitable for your skin’s strength will enable the removal of most of these scaley dead skin cells.

Oily skin can have dry scaley skin cells under the oil, so confusing people as to what type of skin they have….so the best way to deal with it is to exfoliate with an appropriate exfoliator and only apply moisturizer where needed.

Dry skin with dry scaley skin cells definitely needs to be exfoliated and moisturized.

How AHA’s work – explains why they are critical exfoliators for skin care

We have always known that AHA’s (like glycolic or lactic acids) are a critical factor in helping maintain more youthful looking skin, now scientists have found the exact chemical pathway in the skin that means these naturally derived exfoliators are the most effective exfoliation mechanism. Read the article.

Glycolic is a smaller molecular size than the other AHA’s so it has the most pronounced effect but that also means it also creates the greatest sensation when applied on the skin. Some people refer to it as ‘burning’ but that expression is highly unlikely in reality….it may sting, or tingle, or itch, but all of this depends on the amount (%) of AHA in the formula and just how low the pH is. An effective AHA will be a lower pH than your skin, so I always look at the pH range 3.0 up to 4.0 (the higher the number the less acidic it is – so the less sensational it will be when applied to the skin).

Exfoliators are important in treating aging, sun damaged skin, as well as acne or dry and dull skin. AHA’s need to be applied frequently – at least 3 nights a week – but it may be necessary to go up to 7 nights a week to manage some tough skin conditions. It is best to use them at night, not in the morning. AHA peels are generally limited in effectiveness – the stronger Jessner or TCA peels will create a more effective upper skin layer peel.

Remember that ‘stronger’ is NOT better – causing major irritation in the skin is not part of the goal of achieving stronger and more youthful acting skin. Please do not adhere to the marketing BS that claims ‘no pain no gain’…your skin does not work the way marketers hype does…

For effective exfoliators, check them out at the online store.

The information provided here is not meant to diagnose or cure any medical conditions. Please see your doctor or a trained medical professional should you have any concerns.

The best way to stop oily skin

1. Use a truly gentle cleanser and cleanse at night only, using cool water.
2. Do all your treatments at night – like exfoliation, hydration, repair and anti-aging.
3. Moisturize only at night – and only where you need it….where you naturally produce a lot of oil (your skin’s natural moisturizer, don’t put man-made moisturizer there (even those marketing hyped ones called ‘oil-free’).
4. In the morning splash your face with cool water – no cleansing.
5. Apply sunscreen.

So, stop using detergent cleansers – they will give you ‘squeaky-clean’ skin for about 2 hours and then your skin will naturally produce a whole lot more oil….it’s a totally natural process that detergent cleansers will just exacerbate. Detergent cleansers will be those labeled for ‘oily’ or ‘acne’ skin. See the video on ‘cleansers – do they differ and do they matter‘.

Hot water does the same thing as a detergent cleanser – it will remove the oil on your skin (your skin’s natural moisturizer), making you feel ‘squeaky and oil-free, but within 2 hours you will be oily again.

When you start using the proper types of products for your skin, you may well find that you are not as oily as you thought you were…..your skin will start balancing into it’s more ‘normal’ mode.

Those of us with truly oily skin will benefit greatly from this process. Using as few products during the day as possible will be the best thing (NEVER omit the sunscreen though)! During the day we naturally produce more oil because of a whole bunch of hormonal influences (stress, food related etc), so don’t overdo anything for your skin in the morning. If during the day you feel your skin feels dry, then the next morning add a little moisturizer and see how your skin feels that day….and so on until you find what is optimal for your skin….