Category Archives: Moisturizers

Winter skin care and best moisturizing tips

The dramatic, freezing weather across the country is impacting your skin! Dry, cold Winter air will weaken the barrier function of your skin.
The outer-most layer becomes exceptionally dry and scaly. Your lipid
production (aka oil) is not sufficient to cover this extra dry outer
layer (unless you are a very oily skin type). Heated homes and offices will increase water loss from your skin into the dry atmosphere around you. Your skin dehydrates. Your skin flakes. Your skin looks dull. Your skin becomes easily irritated and feels uncomfortable and sensitive. Even the dry, unseasonably warm California weather is weakening the barrier function of your skin.

The solution is to help the skin by:
1. Maintaining a high moisture balance through 2x daily application of a hyaluronic hydrator like Hydrate + Serum.
2. Increasing the lipid barrier function of the skin by applying Rich + Calm Cream at night. For dry skin types, apply it AM + PM. It must be applied after the Hydrate + Serum. For day time, use the Light + Calm Lotion if you have combination skin. NOTE: Use 2 layers of the lotion (1 after
the other) in the areas where the skin is dry and does not produce much
of its own lipids (aka oil).
3. Soothing irritated, uncomfortable and sensitive skin areas by applying the Soothe + Hydrate Mask, leave on 10 minutes, rinse off with cool water. You can apply it AM or PM or both.

All 4 Winter Skin Saving products listed above are 25% off at BLUE TURTLE SPA SHOP. Enter 25off as the promotional coupon code in your shopping cart and click ‘apply’ before you enter all your credit card info at the SSL Secure online shop. Offer valid through Friday 31st January 2014.

PLEASE
NOTE: This discount ONLY applies to the 4 Sensitive Skin Clinic (also
denoted as SSC) products listed above, and does NOT apply to any other
products at the Blue Turtle Spa shop.

Coconut oil for the skin, is it good or bad?

Question from a client:
How do you feel about coconut oil?  I hear it’s all the rage these days

Answer from me:
Coconut oil is fine – most moisturizers have it in the form of caprylic/capric triglycerides…it is just that the marketing hype around it makes it sound like a new discovery…. ‘Caprylic Capric Triglycerides are a specific fraction of coconut / palm oil fatty acids resulting in only the more stable, and skin loving, caprylic & capric fatty acids which creates a dry, silky oil form of esters.’ Reference IngredientsToDieFor.com.

There is an important difference between caprylic/capric triglycerides and ‘fractionated coconut oil’. I prefer the use of caprylic/capric triglycerides to that of fractionated coconut oil. ‘Caprylic Capric Triglycerides are a specialized esterification of Coconut Oil using just the Caprylic and Capric Fatty Acids, while Fractionated Coconut Oil is a, standard, distillation of Coconut Oil which results in a combination of all of the fatty acids, pulled through the distillation process.  Fractionated Coconut Oil has the same feel, and performance, of traditional vegetable oils with a lighter feel and extended shelf life, than most common carrier oils.  Caprylic Capric Triglycerides do not feel like a standard carrier oil, at all.  Caprylic Capric Triglycerides are an ester and have a very light, silky oil, feel that is not at all greasy / oily feeling on the skin.’ Reference IngredientsToDieFor.com.

As with all chemicals, the way it is produced/processed can result in unfortunate/unwelcome artifacts in the formula that won’t be suitable on the skin. Using small amounts of well produced product will be fine. Too much and poorly formulated products can help clog pores or develop skin irritation. In skin care applications Caprylic Capric Triglycerides offer several key benefits: 1. they offer a noticeable silkiness in products, 2. they exhibit excellent anti-oxidant properties to extend the natural shelf life, 3. they offer skin nurturing benefits due to the skin loving nature of the specific fatty acid esters, not seen with common Fractionated Coconut Oil, or other carrier oils, and 4. they are especially suited to sensitive skin and oily skin.’ Reference IngredientsToDieFor.com.

I am a great believer in lipid rich ingredients with moisturizers as they inevitably help build and strengthen the skin’s lipid barrier (this is essential for sensitive and reactive skin). Coconut lipids, like olive lipids, soy lipids, wheat lipids, shea butter lipids, phospholipids, are all good for the skin when used appropriately…. You will find most of these incorporated in the formulas of Sensitive Skin Clinic moisturizers, as well as those sold through the Blue Turtle Spa online shop.

Whatever is the ‘latest rage’ will inevitably just be marketing hype!

Your jar of moisturizer can be dangerous for sensitive skin

For decades, the skin care industry has used jars as containers for all types of skin care products. They are cheap, easy to fill during the production process, and potentially very dangerous for sensitive skin….

As soon as you take off the lid, you are letting air affect the cream in the jar. Most ingredients in skin care products are plant based (known as organic, because they are primarily carbon, and carbon is the basis of all life on this planet), so they can be easily oxidized (because we have oxygen in the air all the time)! Oxidized ingredients can be very irritating and can worsen sensitive skin conditions as well as other skin conditions like acne.

Apart from oxidation, a jar of moisturizer means you can dip your fingers into it in order to get product on your face. How bacteria or fungus free are your fingers? Where had they been just prior to dipping them in the moisturizer? You can transfer bacteria and fungus from 1 jar of moisturizer or cream to another by way of your fingers.

To counteract these potential dangers, the skin care product will contain preservatives and anti oxidants. The more potential the product has to be ‘infected’ the more preservatives will be in the product. Preservatives are naturally very irritating and damaging for sensitive skin, especially in higher quantities. To learn more about preservatives in skin care, watch this video. All skin care products, no matter how natural and organic they claim to be, will have to contain preservatives and antioxidants….because no one will buy a product that will go ‘bad’ quickly (much like fresh fruit and vegetables will). Very often, the antioxidant ingredients in a product are not for the benefit of your skin, they are for the benefit of the product itself, to stop it oxidizing too quickly.

The best solution for sensitive skin is to use ‘airless pumps’. These containers don’t allow air to enter as you dispense the product from the container (so reducing the requirement for antioxidant ingredients in high quantities). The pump will also prevent you from ‘unknowingly’ contaminating your product with bacterium and fungus (so reducing the need for anti-microbe preservatives in high quantities).

Read more about Smart Packaging using opaque airless pumps – an essential part of taking care of your sensitive skin.

Another way to protect your products is to keep them in a cool location, like your fridge…but that is not very convenient for most people….so to keep them in your bathroom, make sure they are in airless pumps, or bottles with flip caps, or tubes, but definitely not in jars!

Oily skin in the morning? What to do

You wake up and your skin is oily – you hate it – what to do?

1) Do not use hot water and detergent cleanser (and definitely NOT that oily-skin-cleanser or acne-skin-cleanser). If you do, the initial feeling of squeaky-clean, non-oily skin will be replaced with very oily skin again within 2 hours….because that’s just the way the skin works… So, just splash the face with cool water and for most people that is enough. Do not stick your face into the steaming hot shower water (which is of course bad for the skin on the rest of your body ) Use your gentle cleanser only at night. Type 4 teenage acne sufferers may cleanse in the morning and evening with a truly gentle cleanser (no detergents, no hot water)… If you have sensitive AND oily skin – you DEFINITELY CANNOT use hot water and detergent cleansers… See the Extreme + Sensitive cleanser as well as Skin Tips for Sensitive Skin.

2. Do not apply moisturizer all over – just where you need it, and apply less in the morning than you apply at night. See the video moisturize: yes or no.

3. Use a mineral sunscreen – not a moisturizer/sunscreen combination. Saving time by using a 2-in-1 product will just make you oily again.

You will be less oily during the day – but if you are a big-time-oil-producer…so get used to the idea of some oil, but not lots of oil. Blotting excess oil with tissues is fine.

By the by, it’s commonly called ‘oil’ but it’s not oil – the sebaceous secretions are actually a fat. See the video how the skin works.

Why does the skin feel extra oily on a hot day?
Because fat will change its viscosity in heat. Think of butter – it is a solid fat, but will melt in heat and appear runny – like ‘oil’ – but it is just melted/runny fat! You are not producing more oil on a hot day. It just feels that way. Blot excess oil with tissues.

Oily skin is not gross, it is part of the wonderfully intricate engineering of the human body. Like it or not, that is the way your skin works. If you resist the temptation to try and stop it from functioning naturally (as per the marketing hype and lies of the skin care product industry), it will settle down and just be ‘normal’. Normal refers to what is normal for you – not what is normal for someone else. So there is no general definition of normal skin….it is a stupid marketing term that you should delete from your memory!

Home Care routine for Severe Rosacea and Sensitive Skin (UPDATED)

PM Home Care Routine:

1.  Cleanse with Dr Schwab Sensitive Cleanser or Extreme + Sensitive Cleanser. Use about the size of a US quarter/25cent coin (use more than that if you wear makeup – play with different quantities to find the optimal amount that removes the quantity of makeup that you use on your skin). Follow the process as per the video of how to use this cleanser. I am VERY serious about the process and the fact that you add small amounts of water each time – do not try and take a short cut and use large amounts of water – it will not produce the same result! Do NOT follow the instructions on the cleanser bottle. ONLY use cool water.

2. Hydrate + Serum. It hydrates the skin which then helps it start repairing itself. Apply 1 to 2 pumps all over, leave on.

3. Tu’el Super Soothe Mask or SSC Soothe + Hydrate Mask Apply on red/irritated/painful skin. It will calm just about any skin type, and also nourish it with antioxidants. Use a substantial layer of the mask – do not let it disappear from view – it must be visible on the skin at all times. Leave on 10 minutes. Splash off with cool water.

4. Apply medicated solutions if necessary – metrogel/antibiotics if prescribed by your doctor. This is a personal decision on your part…I cannot tell you that you should or should not follow your doctors prescription….

5. Skin Renu Rosacea Defense or SSC Light + Calm Lotion (if you have very dry skin you may prefer the SSC Rich + Calm Cream) – moisturize all over. This is a great light moisturizer to help add valuable lipids back into rosacea or damaged/sensitive skin – a critical element for the skin to regain strength and so reduce the visible aspects of rosacea or skin sensitivity.

AM Home Care Routine

1. Splash the face with cool water – do not cleanse. Over-cleansing is bad for all skin types but especially bad for rosacea and sensitive skin.

2. SSC Hydrate + Serum. It hydrates the skin which then helps it start repairing itself. Apply 1 to 2 pumps all over, leave on.

3. Tu’el Super Soothe Mask or SSC Soothe + Hydrate Mask. Apply on red/irritated/painful skin. It will calm just about any skin type, and also nourish it with antioxidants. It must be a substantial layer of the mask – do not let it disappear from view – it must be visible on the skin at all times. Leave on 10 minutes. Splash off with cool water.

4. Apply medicated solutions if necessary – metrogel/antibiotics if prescribed by your doctor. This is a personal decision on your part…I cannot tell you that you should or should not follow your doctors prescription….

5. Skin Renu Rosacea Defense – moisturize only where needed during the daytime – not all over if there are areas where you are naturally ‘oily’ – i.e. where you produce a lot of your own natural moisturizer…see the video on whether to moisturize or not. You don’t want to have too much moisturizer on during the day as your skin will often produce more of it’s own due to stress hormones and other hormonal activity.

6. Apply a mineral sunscreen like ‘Mineral Sunscreen SPF 40‘ (with a tint), or ‘Mineral Sunscreen SPF 35‘ (without tint). Only mineral sunscreens should be used on extremely sensitive skin. Apply a sunscreen EVERY DAY!

NOTE: Do not try and exfoliate severe rosacea and sensitive skin. Your skin will have to strengthen to a more moderate level of rosacea and sensitivity before you do that. See the blog entry for a home care routine for moderate rosacea and sensitivity.

YOU MAY PURCHASE A 15 MINUTE SKYPE VIDEO CONSULTATION WITH ANDREW IF YOU NEED HELP.

NOTE: The information provided here is not meant to diagnose or cure any medical conditions. Please see your doctor or a trained medical professional should you have any concerns.…