Category Archives: Moisturizers

BB Creams and/or BS Creams

It’s the marketing hyped ‘miracle’ cosmetic that everyone ‘just-has-to-have’!!! BB Creams may be more accurately described as BS Creams.

Basically they are made with so many different types of silicones that they can never, ever, be termed ‘Natural’ and definitely not ‘Organic’ (though silicones can be called organic from a science point of view, they are definitely not organic from a marketing point of view). By the way, a ‘natural’ alternative to silicone is wax – something I really dislike in skin care products…

Have a look at the ingredients in BB creams (though few of them ever publish ingredients online) and pass over the huge quantity of marketing hype (aka Bull Sht), and you will discover 7 or 8 types of silicones (the ingredient ends in -cone or -silane or -siloxane as a few examples). Usually the first number of ingredients (which means they are the largest quantity in the formula) are silicones.

Silicones provide the ‘sheer’ nature of the BB creams. And because they are a slightly emollient substance (makes the skin feel silky and smooth) they are called moisturizers (and maybe there will be other real moisturizers like glycerin and panthenol thrown in as a side measure). Most of these silicones are water resistant, so they are easily termed ‘protectorants’ by the marketing BS people.

Silicones can be used to make wrinkles appear less deep/pronounced/obvious by way of diffusing light (day light/sunlight/artificial light) that typically will reflect the shadow depth of a wrinkle to the human eye. Diffuse the light and ‘voila’ you get the magical illusion of no wrinkles/shallower wrinkles etc..

As for the ‘one-size-fits-all’ nature of BB creams, well no 2 people’s skins are the same, so how can 1 product with 5 functions be suitable for so many people??? It’s not possible – unless you’re one of the BS marketing people.

If the inorganic minerals Zinc oxide and Titanium dioxide are used as the active sunscreen ingredients, and are combined greater than 10% in the formula, then you can classify it as a good sunscreen. It appears that some of the BB creams still use organic sunscreen ingredients (octinoxate, octisalate, oxybenzones etc) which are not good sunscreens (see the video Suncreens: the facts).

If the BB cream is indeed a moisturizer, well not everyone needs moisturizer all over the face – only where you don’t naturally produce your own moisturizer (that natural stuff produced in your sebaceous glands that is critical to the way your skin functions)….. see the video Moisturizers – yes or no? If you only need moisturizing in some parts of the face, but you need sunscreen all over the face, how can you achieve that when the BS marketing people have bundled it all together in 1 BB Cream container? Makes you realize how they don’t really care about your skin after all….

If the BB cream claims to hydrate the skin – well it is doing so by way of the silicones playing the role of an occlusive layer that holds water in the skin. Water held in the skin will naturally make it appear more plump and hydrated. That’s what petrolatum/petroleum jelly/Vaseline/Aquafor do…. The reason why medical professionals recommend the use of petrolatum on wounds is because the more moisture you retain in the skin the more likely the skin is to heal…water is ESSENTIAL in every cell in your body in order for it to repair and replicate. So in this case maybe silicones are playing a similar role to petrolatum….both are synthetic/highly processed substances.

As for all the other ‘anti aging’ ingredients in BB creams, well they probably won’t penetrate the skin unless they are encapsulated in liposomes, or in a lipid soluble carrier  environment….and silicones are neither of those…so the anti aging part of the story is just more BS from the marketing people.

As a foundation, it seems to fit the category well. Most foundations these days are silicone based anyway, and many of them have sunscreening ingredients as well as emollient moisturizing ingredients. My preference is for you to get your skin strong and healthy – so much so that it looks great without being plastered in foundation…..but I totally understand that foundations are a great way to cover up/over the sins of your youth (sun damage) or genetically inherited skin issues. Most men like to see a women’s skin naked…meaning no foundation

Improve your skin, don’t hide it… If you have sensitive/red/irritated skin, try nurturing it back to health with Sensitive Skin Clinic products rather than disguising it under foundation every day…you want your skin to look it’s best when all that makeup has to come off…

But if you prefer marketing hype to the scientific facts, then BB creams are just perfect…..

PS: Silicones are becoming a BIG environmental hazard (they bio-accumulate) – affecting the rivers, lakes, underground water supplies (and all organisms in the water) that so many billions of people rely on. The building and manufacturing industries are massive users (and thus polluters by default), but when you add all the silicones used in shampoos and conditioners as well as makeup and cosmetics, all that silicone being washed down the drain each night by hundreds of millions of people….you start realizing the magnitude of the problem….but who thinks about the well being of the planet when their hair and face are their number 1 concern?

Concerned about silicones? You may be interested in this article from Best Health Magazine.

Best skin care solution for dry winter skin (face & body)

Layering is the best answer to winter – you do it with your clothing, so do it with your skin care too!

Firstly, apply a hydration serum like Hydrate + Serum or Hale Dermist M3HA.
Secondly, apply your regular amount of your normal moisturizer like Rich + Calm Cream or Light + Calm Lotion.
Thirdly, apply another regular layer of your normal moisturizer (use less of this second layer for the oilier parts of the face).

Enjoy how much less flakey and dehydrated your skin looks….

The information provided here is not meant to diagnose or cure any medical conditions. Please see your doctor or a trained medical professional should you have any concerns.

Olive Oil and beauty secrets

There is always someone proclaiming to know a beauty secret…something that will solve all your problems about aging skin….This article claims it is olive oil…but no scientific evidence is delivered (like where were the subjects in the study (equatorial Africa or northern Finland), what else did the subjects put on their skin or consume by way of food?) – I guess because they don’t think readers are smart enough to understand it? Read the article and see for yourself.

Now I happen to like olive oil and believe it has great qualities that can be used in skin care. Squalane is a moisturizing ingredient that comes from olives. Squalane plus other olive extracts are in all the moisturizers in the Blue Turtle Spa online shop (Light + Calm Lotion, Rich + Calm Cream, Rosacea Defense, Wrinkle Reducing Formula for face and neck, and Advanced Bruise Prevention Formula). It is also one of the carrier oils in the amazing 17.5% esterized Vitamin C anti aging product C + Renew Serum. It is an ingredient that seems to work with almost everyone’s skin….and is great for sensitive skin.

I also like olive oil in shampoos, and only use olive oil when I cook. It has positive qualities where ever you look…but is it a beauty secret? I hardly think so….but them some ‘beauty editors’ may even claim one day that healthy eating is a beauty secret I wish they would just say that junk food/fast food/processed food is a beauty disaster waiting to happen….but they seem to be keeping that a secret for now….

The information provided here is not meant to diagnose or cure any medical conditions. Please see your doctor or a trained medical professional should you have any concerns. 

Winter moisturizer and moisturizing process

For many people Winter means heating in the home and at work. Dry, warm air indoors combined with dry, cold air outdoors, will inevitably result in tight, dehydrated, and at times flakey skin. The best way to approach Winter skin dryness is the same way you approach Winter clothing – LAYERS!

Firstly, use a hydration serum that will bind water in the skin, so helping your skin retain water and remain more hydrated. The onslaught of dry heat will dry your skin out the way that you can dry your washing indoors in Winter…. Great hydration gels are Hydrate + Serum, Hale Dermist M3 HA, or aloCell Gel.

Secondly, apply a moisturizer that is suitable to your skin type. For dry skin, make your moisturizer a richer one, with shea butter and rich lipids like the Rich + Calm Cream or Skin Renu Wrinkle Reducing Formula for Face and Neck. For combination or oily skin types use a light moisturizer that does not feel thick and greasy on the skin, like Light + Calm Lotion or Skin Renu Advanced Bruise Prevention Formula (don’t worry about the funky name – the ingredients make it a wonderful light moisturizer for face and body).

Thirdly, LAYER your moisturizer. Use your normal quantity of moisturizer on your face and neck, let it absorb for a minute or so, then ADD a second layer of the normal quantity that you use, and apply especially to the areas that need more moisturizing, skipping over the areas where you tend to be more oily. This way you will get the added moisturizing benefit without feeling like you have a thick layer of goop on your face. When you try and apply double the normal amount in one layer you just end up wiping the excess off on your hands and arms and chest etc…so you probably feel that even though you are applying more, there is no change in the level of dryness of the skin.

Of course, if you use a detergent cleanser or use hot water on your face, you are just drying it out and making the dryness of Winter weather even more exaggerated. Use non detergent cleansers like Extreme + Sensitive Cleanser or Dr Schwab Sensitive Cleanser, and use only cool water when you cleanse.

Spring and Summer will soon be here and you can start reducing the amount of layering you do with skin care products and clothing

The information provided here is not meant to diagnose or cure any medical conditions. Please see your doctor or a trained medical professional should you have any concerns.

Dry skin has 2 meanings

Classifying skin as ‘dry’ can be confusing because there are 2 levels of ‘dryness’ that you can experience with your skin.

Firstly, dryness relates to the amount of ‘oil’ your skin produces. The sebaceous gland produces this ‘oil’ and it is supposed to come out of the pores and cover the skin as your natural moisturizer. This stuff is good – and absolutely critical to the way your skin functions as a protective barrier for the rest of the body. If you skin produces little ‘oil’ you can be classified as having a ‘dry’ skin and you may experience more ‘tightness’ and also see a level of ‘crepey’ fine lines appear on the skin. You definitely will need to add moisturizer in order to make the skin appear more supple, hydrated and youthful. An ‘oily’ skin produces a lot of it’s own natural moisturizer and usually looks more supple and hydrated and thus does not require much in the way of man-made moisturizer to be slathered over it.

Secondly, the upper layer of the skin is naturally dry – made up of dead (keratinized) cells. It is also a way the skin is designed to protect the body. Too much keratin growth leaves your skin looking scaley and rough, and is also classified as dry. Using an effective Alpha Hydroxy Acid at a % and pH suitable for your skin’s strength will enable the removal of most of these scaley dead skin cells.

Oily skin can have dry scaley skin cells under the oil, so confusing people as to what type of skin they have….so the best way to deal with it is to exfoliate with an appropriate exfoliator and only apply moisturizer where needed.

Dry skin with dry scaley skin cells definitely needs to be exfoliated and moisturized.