Category Archives: Skin Care

A minority of people prefer skin care facts to marketing hype

Factual and honest skin care information is never glamourous nor seductive, which is why the majority like glitzy marketing hype from big name cosmetic companies or their eager (but uninformed) proxies 🙂 Are you one of the MINORITY?

This is from the SkinCareTV channel on YouTube – comments on the video The BEST sequence of Applying Skin Care Products :

Sonya Georgieva 1 year ago
‘I can believe that for now you have just a 9 view and this have 700 000 views

Are all peoples are crazy?This girl have nothing to learn me just,i like this i like that…
Here in this chanel i learn so much and i’m so thankfull.This world is wrong.’

SkinCareTV 9 months ago
‘+Sonya Georgieva Thanks for the comment…welcome to the club called ‘Minority’. Unfortunately the majority love glitz, glamour and fluff…they hate facts. I love being a minority… We, the minority, love facts :-)’

Sonya Georgieva 9 months ago
‘Hi ,thank you for your time.Yes i know it is very sad.Kiss from France’


A guide to choosing an esthetician

Choosing an esthetician is like choosing a dentist, nutritionist, music teacher…what criteria should be used in deciding who to go to? You need to find someone who is knowledgeable about skin physiology, skin chemistry, and product chemistry. It’s not about whether they carry a specific line of products and that they regurgitate all the marketing hype of that product line. It’s about how they can help you take care of your skin without making your face look red/swollen/uncomfortable/painful. It’s about keeping your skin strong and balanced…

For all my wonderful clients who will be looking for a new esthetician due to my decision to retire….here is a guide to finding a good skin care specialist/esthetician/facialist:

Make the following requests of your esthetician in terms of how they treat your skin:

For all skin types:
No steam (unless it’s for teenage acne), no hot towels, cool water only
No benzoyl peroxide anything…
No detergent cleansers
No glycolic cleanser (it is detergent based)
No salicylic cleanser (it is detergent based)
No scrub (it does NOT deep clean the pores)
Only inorganic (mineral) sunscreen please…

In addition….

For sensitive skin or any skin with any level of redness in it:
No aggressive AHA or BHA treatments
No retinols or other aggressive anti aging products
No hydrocortisone
No hydroquinone (skin whitening)

For dry skin types:
No clay masks – they will dry the skin out
No Titanium Dioxide sunscreen – it will emphasize dryness on the skin

Ask questions like:
How do you keep the skin balanced? See if the answer is similar to what I say.
How often should I have a facial? It should not be a set period of time – it’s 4-6weeks for oily clogged skin to every 6 months for dry skin.
Does diet, stress, shampoo and conditioner impact the skin? (the answer should be YES).

If the esthetician says any of the following….run away as fast as possible because they ‘know not of what they speak’…ALL OF THE FOLLOWING ARE FALSE/UNSCIENTIFIC/MISLEADING/MYTHS:

/ they will ‘detox’ your skin
/ natural products are always good for your skin
/ organic skin care is the same as eating organic food
/ your skin absorbs everything you put on it (well they’ll probably say at least 60%)
/ you need to open the pores then close them again
/ all blackheads must be extracted otherwise they become acne
/ your skin will be ‘purging’ toxins after the facial (aka expect a lot of pimples)
/ acne and acne rosacea are the same thing
/ oil causes acne – so they only recommend oil-free products
/ they recommend the use oil absorbing products to eliminate oil from the skin (even when you’re not really oily)
/ they believe that squeaky clean skin is good and that they can ‘deep-clean’ the pores
/ a toner is important to pH balance the skin
/ their products have no ‘chemicals’ in them (everything on the planet is a chemical except light and electricity so it’s impossible to get a chemical free ‘anything’).

Check out the videos about skin care myths as well as how the skin works… all helpful videos can be watched on the SkinCareTV channel.

Remember, I’m just a video call away, so make an appointment and I can help you through any conflicts or concerns as you transition to a new esthetician.

Thank you for letting me help you with the ongoing care of your skin. I appreciated your support over the years as well as your confidence in my ability to treat your skin the way it should/needs be treated.

Reverse or reduce damage and hyperpigmentation from laser treatments

A laser burns the skin. That’s what it is designed to do. Acute burning and killing of skin cells will stimulate new cell growth. It can help reduce wrinkles. It can help reduce the depth of acne scars. It can help reduce hyperpigmentation caused by sun damage in your youth. BUT it can also INCREASE hyperpigmentation in the skin. It can also leave you with more sensitive skin….

The natural process of the skin is to produce more melanin (your skin colour cells) to cover any inflamed tissue because inflamed tissue is more easily damaged by the sun than non-inflamed tissue. This is particularly important for people with colour in their skin…whether it be Mediterranean, Latino, Middle Eastern, Asian or Equatorial African….etc.

If you have an inflamed acne pimple, the chances are you will have a dark spot on your skin when the swelling reduces and the pimple goes away. So too with laser treatments on skin with colour.

Even though you may have very light skin, and have the lightest skin tone in your family, the chances of having dark pigmentation after laser treatments is still a very real threat. Check out and see if previous generations on your mother’s and father’s side had naturally dark skin…you may have inherited those genes, and will scar quite deeply after laser treatments.

Unfortunately, laser technicians (who are supposed to be medical professionals) don’t know who will pigment the most – and besides, they want to make money so won’t be too concerned about your particular genetic inheritance….

For some clients I’ve seen, essentially the pigment is deep seated due to the laser treatment that traumatised the skin and created the pigmented response… It will be impossible to remove deep seated pigmentation, but we can lighten it and maintain it in a lighter form. Sun exposure will cause deep seated hyperpigmentation to get a lot darker.

So, here’s what I suggest (assuming your skin may still have some low level sensitivity as a residual of the laser treatment):

We start with a nightly Vitamin C Serum plus Decircling Serum treatment. I  blogged about how to use it as a solution for the hands – that’s just an example of where this treatment can be used…it is definitely suited to the face and neck etc… if you feel sensitivity, reduce the frequency of application.

You will use it in the same manner on the face/neck, at night, after cleansing the skin using a gentle cleanser (extreme + sensitive cleanser) and only with cool water. Use 2 – 3 pumps of the C + Renew Serum and apply firstly to pigmented areas and then spread out to all other skin on the face. You will need 3 – 4 pumps of the Decircle + Firm Eyes, and apply it over the C + Renew Serum. Do this about 30 – 40 minutes before going to bed, or anytime in the evening after you cleanse. Leave it on over night.

After a few months you will begin using an alpha hydroxy acid like Age Limit at night before the application of the Vitamin C. I don’t rush this step because it’s best not to re-sensitize or traumatize your skin…the glycolic combined with the vitamin c will be instrumental in lightening the darker pigmented areas even more than the above mentioned step. It will still be slow, so be patient.

For now, if you want to even out skin tone during the day, use the TINTED 20% zinc sunscreen for a subtle evening out of skin tone, or the Zinc and Titanium Tinted sunscreen if you prefer a little more definite coverage.

Always remember to keep your face out of hot or warm water. Use cool water only. Only use sensitive skin products.

By the by, all medical treatments are tested on animals, in case you are opposed to painful and torturous experiments on unwilling caged lab animals…

The information provided here is not meant to diagnose or cure any medical conditions. Please see your doctor or a trained medical professional should you have any concerns.

Did your Summer skin look this bad?

Summer is the time most people think about sunscreen, but it should be all the time….whether you are in the tropics or cooler temperate environments.

A friend of mine was at a beach on an equatorial island in February and he looked like this… even though he said he applied sunscreen…

Sunburn Jesse Feb 23_2015

Painful eh! You think that your skin gets over it….but the damage is set and will appear later on in life when the mechanisms in the skin are unable to continue to mask it. The damage will appear for you, and all the world, to see.

And there is also the fact that you may need to deal with America’s #1 cancer – skin cancer. Maybe even have to deal with the deadliest form, Melanoma, like President Carter does? (and this is a great article in the BBC about the president’s cancer and information about melanoma).

The general rule is to stay out of the sun, and reapply your sunscreen often (even under the umbrella or sitting in the shade). If you swim, even water resistant sunscreen will give you less protection. There is no such thing as water proof sunscreen. Sunscreen can never be a sunblock…sunblock is an illegal and incorrect term because it can never block all the sun’s rays. If you sweat and wipe the sweat off, you need to reapply sunscreen, likewise if you dry yourself after swimming.

The most protection will come from inorganic sunscreens (where the active ingredients are Zinc Oxide and/or Titanium DiOxide). Any other type of active ingredient in the active ingredients list….is organic…and that is bad…because it will break down in the presence of ultra violet light from the sun. Yes, there are mineral sunscreens that don’t make you look white/pasty/chalky/ghostly. And they are not thick and greasy to wear. Check out these sunscreens. SPF is a mathematical formula and should not be relied upon as a deciding factor when choosing a sunscreen. Check out this video about sunscreen facts to make sure you know how to make sunscreen decisions.

People complain about ineffective sunscreens, as they did recently about Alba Organics, but if you comply with the suggestions in the previous 2 paragraphs, you have a much better chance of being sun safe, and reducing your potential for skin cancers.

And it is advisable to apply a multi-level antioxidant before the sunscreen. Antioxidants help defend your skin from the infra red spectrum from the sun, while mineral sunscreens help defend your skin from the ultra violet spectrum from the sun. You need to do both, not 1 or the other…

The information provided here is not meant to diagnose or cure any medical conditions. Please see your doctor or a trained medical professional should you have any concerns.