Tag Archives: oil cleansing method OCM

How to reduce pore size – REALLY

I received a request for information from the howtobearedhead.com blog site recently, concerning how to minimize pore size – especially for sensitive skin… They stated the deadline was the 27th, but they published their article on the 26th! Oh well, they probably would not have been interested in my scientific approach to the subject any way. I maintain that good skin care cannot be reduced to 5 second soundbites…:-)

The Request: We’re looking for a skin expert to comment on how to 1) naturally minimize pores and/or 2) the best products to minimize pores. We’re looking for the information to be curtailed to those with sensitive skin.

Response:
Firstly, we all have the pore size we’re genetically born with. We can’t selectively change pore size by using any medical of cosmetic products.

Secondly, pore size can ‘appear’ larger because sebum and dry skin stuck in the pore makes it appear disgorged and larger. For this, proper cleansing and exfoliation will help reduce clogged pores and make them appear ‘normal’ for that individual.

Thirdly, a loss of elasticity in the skin as we age will ensure that gravity will make pores appear larger.

Solutions for #1 are makeup related. Conceal the skin and your pore size with masses of makeup. I am not a fan of masking the skin – rather treat it properly and gently with good skin care and be proud of the skin you are in. That’s the most natural approach!

Solutions for #2 will be very different from the norm when considered for sensitive skin:
Gentle cleansing with an oil based cleanser. Dirt and debris (including makeup) naturally attaches to oil – it’s just a scientific fact. A good, light, oil cleanser will include small amounts of emulsifiers so that it can be removed from the skin with cool water (the oil turns milky when water is added). Oil cleansers do not strip your natural moisturizer (lipid barrier) off the skin. Squeaky clean is unnatural and bad for the skin.
Use cool water only. Hot or warm water is terribly bad for sensitive skin. Hot and warm water relaxes the skin and makes the pores appear larger.
Cleanse only once per day – most importantly the evening. Cleansing 2x per day is bad for all skin, but especially bad for sensitive skin. Never use detergent cleansers, even so-called ‘natural’ ones.
Do not overstimulate the sebaceous glands and thus create more opportunity for sebum to clog in pores. Over cleansing the skin and using hot or warm water will naturally over stimulate the sebaceous glands.
Gently exfoliate the skin at night using a very mild enzyme or alpha hydroxy acid that is no lower than a 4pH. Most sensitive skins can tolerate these. The alpha hydroxy acid should be no more than 3% in concentration. Because it is a slightly lower pH than the skin, some sensation should be expected. It is not to be feared. The exfoliant should be splashed off the skin after 3 – 5 minutes to neutralize the effect on the skin. Scrubs and brushes should never be used as exfoliators – especially not for sensitive skin. Exfoliation reduces the build up of dry/dead cells in the pores. Exfoliation should be carried out 3 nights a week for sensitive skin, but may be done 5 to 7 nights a week for best effect of maintaining ‘normal’ pore size.
Apply a soothing, simple, hydration gel to the skin after exfoliating. Hydration gels bind water to the skin and help reduce appearance of wrinkles and pore size.
Apply a light or rich lipid based moisturizer over the hydration gel – depending on what your skin needs. Squalane from olives is good. Shea butter is good. Coconut oil is good. The medium chain fatty acids of coconut oil (capric/caprylic triglycerides) are found in most moisturizers.
Other important aspects of treating sensitive skin can be found at Sensitive Skin Clinic.

Solutions for #3 require strengthening the skin collagen and elastin:
Light peptides in a gentle silicone base. This will create a non-irritant formula for sensitive skin. Peptides will strengthen collagen and elastin and reduce the visible effects of aging and gravity.
An esterized Vitamin C will enable the best form of Vitamin C (tetrahexydecyl ascorbate) to penetrate the skin and stimulate collagen growth, provided it is in a non irritant oil base and utilizes anti irritant ingredients like sea whip. It can be applied to the skin under a soothing and hydrating mask, left on for 15 minutes and splashed off with cool water. The results on reducing the appearance of wrinkles and pore size is amazing. This can be done 3 to 5 times per week.

Artificial means of temporarily reducing pore size usually entails astringents (like lemon juice or witch hazel) or light inflammatory agents like retinols that induce slight edema (swelling) so visually reducing wrinkles and pore size. This approach is highly contraindicated for people with any level of sensitive skin.

All medical solutions approved by the FDA are tested on animals and I find that to be abhorrent. I prefer skin care products that use vegan or vegetarian compliant ingredients.

Oil Cleansing Method…How to use Deep + Gentle Cleanser

Using a high quality oil based cleanser is the best thing for all skin types, and is the only type of cleanser that really does help to lift blackheads and yet does not strip your skin of it’s natural and vital lipid barrier….remember that ‘squeaky-clean’ is so totally bad, unnatural and unhealthy for all skin….

NOTE: Cleanse at night. Do NOT cleanse in the shower. You need to use cool water to cleanse.

OCM in 6 easy steps.

1. Do not wet face. Do not wet hands.

2. Apply about the size of US 25c coin to dry skin each P.M.

3. Move over skin in gentle circular motions for 1 to 2 minutes.

Concentrate on areas where you have blackheads and more ‘oil’ production.

It does not foam or have any of the tricks associated with all commercial detergent cleansers out there.

4. After 1 – 2 minutes add a little cool water to fingers and add it to the oil cleanser on your skin. Repeat 4x. The cleanser turns ‘milky’ with the addition of water.

At this point you will have the distinct tactile feeling of the skin of your fingers on the skin of your face – meaning there is no cleanser product separating them.

5. Remove all residue of the cleanser by splashing the face with cool water.

Your skin will feel soft, moist, and clean. There will be no unnatural ‘squeaky-clean’ feeling nor a sense of dryness on the vast majority of skin types.

6. Pat the skin dry with a clean soft towel and marvel at the great feeling.

It is important not to over cleanse the skin – only once a day (in the PM) is all your skin needs – unless you are a teenage type 4 acne sufferer who needs to cleanse twice per day – but the vast majority of people will just unbalance their skin by cleansing more than once per day.

To remove makeup like foundation, use more cleanser – you will have to try different amounts based on the type and quantity of makeup you apply to your face.

To remove eye makeup, apply cleanser to some cotton and wipe over eye area. Repeat if needed depending on the type and quantity of eye make up you applied. Do not rub harshly – just use a bit more cleanser. Be gentle with your skin – it does not deserve harsh treatment – after all you put the makeup on the skin – it’s not your skin’s fault – so be gentle with it!

Watch the OCM video at SkinCareTV.

Read the related blog entries on the easiest way to stop oily skin, and how to deal with oily skin in the morning.

The Holiday Season can Worsen Skin Conditions! Part 3

Happy Holidays! We are supposed to smile and cheer and be happy, but very often it is a season that makes our skin unhappy. Why is this? Here is another major reason – following on from Part 1 and 2:

3. Climate. For most of the USA, the winter holiday season brings in cold weather, and in turn we increase the heating in our homes and offices. All around us, dry, artificially heated air is dehydrating our skin. Anyone with any level of sensitive skin will feel this more acutely. The skin feels dry, it may crack and flake, it may get irritated or red, it may even hurt. The dry air in planes will also impact your skin.

Solution: You will need to hydrate the skin with a hyaluronic serum like Sensitive Skin Clinic’s Hydrate + Serum that also has built in soothing ingredients like biosaccharide-2. Use a less aggressive AHA exfoliator maybe even a light exfoliation each night with the very effective Sensitive Skin Clinic Gentle + Exfoliate Gel. Increase the naturally hydrating aquaporin activity and functionality in every cell by using piptadenia colubrina peel extract (from a tree in the Brazilian rain forest) and found in Cell Youth Actif and Total Age Corrector. Do not use detergent cleansers – only truly gentle and sensitive skin cleansers that contain no detergent ingredients. Glycerin and Yucca extract are great for extremely sensitive skin. Other skin types can try an oil based cleanser like Sensitive Skin Clinic’s Deep + Gentle cleanser. Oil cleansers are great for removing makeup and also any level of dirt and debris, but it does not strip your essential natural lipid barrier off the skin. This is critical for any level of sensitive skin. Only use cool water on your face – no hot or warm water. Any level of warmth will make redness and irritation worse. Always soothe, cool and calm red and irritated skin. For a power boost to the skin before any big holiday event, use a soothing mask like Sensitive Skin Clinic’s Soothe + Hydrate Mask incorporating the super soothing ingredients of Sea Whip (from a marine plant), Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5) and Comfrey extract. Use a richer moisturizer that has shea butter extract in it. Shea butter comes from a tree nut, and though it does not naturally have a fabulous aroma, be sure to avoid the shea butter moisturizers and creams that have added fragrance because fragrance will worsen dry, irritated and red skin. For strong skin reactions, soothing aloe vera will help, and to help skin repair, aloe vera with glyco proteins from yeast will do an amazingly good job – as in aloCell Gel by Dr Gimmelsberger.

Being gentle to the skin will help it become naturally strong and balanced. Being aggressive will just weaken it further. A happier skin will look fresh and healthy, and younger. A happier skin is a happier you. Happy holidays!

The information provided here is not meant to diagnose or cure any medical conditions. Please see your doctor or a trained medical professional should you have any concerns.